Tuesday, September 19, 2017

Carnivalesque in Viswakarma Puja: Narratives of Festivities of Alcohol and Music in Kolkata and its suburbs

Carnivalesque and the present time:

Early anthropologists like Max Gluckman (1963), Edmund Leach (1961) and Peter Burke (1978) represent generation of classical studies of festivals. Gluckman’s (1963) findings conceptualise role argues role reversals where among African tribes are seen as represent transcending transcendence over local taboos to protest against social order. Leach (1961) documents upside down and chaotic world in festivals.Burke (1978) using these anthropological findings formulate carnivalesque, theorising carnival as institutionalised disorder with rituals of reversal. Lefebvre (1991a,b) focuses on the rationalisation and commodification of life which is associated to the demise of pre-modern carnivals and indigenous festivals. Echoing Durkheim’s (1973) conception of mechanical solidarity Lefebvre argues that festivals are examples of spontaneous, ecstatic and identity-producing cultural practices, which is a feature of per-modern society. Lefebvre (2002) sees impact of capitalism in transforming the pre-modern festivals to spectacles and rise of new modes of consumption including culture, entertainment, tourism and leisure.

The memories of a transformation of carnivalesque

In our childhood it was the Kali Puja or the worship of Goddess Kali that used to assume the carnivalesque nature – the transformation of cityscape upside down. On that day it was virtually alright to drink a lot and do some weird behaviour. Goddess Kali herself receives wine (usually offered to her, a pint of Rum) and her followers usually have whatever they like. The unusual queue at the wine shops a few days before reflected the trend. However, those things have intensified and now cover almost every festival of the state. Young generation is fond of going frenzy on every occasion with hint of alcohol. Thereby, it is severely changing the concept of carnivalasque through wine in the cityscape. Other features of the carnivalesque might include the changing space allocation, spectacle building, changing routine of the spectators, sudden rise of consumption and so on. In this regards one might (quite justifiably) say Durgotsav is the biggest carnival of the city and its surroundings. In this blog post I would rather say Durgotsav and today’s Kalipuja too represents a balanced carnival of the ‘Bhadralok’ – the gentlemen and the true upside-down effect lies in other apparently lesser studied festivities.

The most prominent among them is the spurring rise of Viswakarma Puja – the worship of the Lord of Machines/engineers/factories. While West Bengal has observed steady decline of industries the hotbeds for worship of Viswakarma click here: https://jpgmag.com/stories/20166, there is a parallel rise of informal economy and consideration of such economies as production oriented economies and hence the worship has assumed a different form for last couple of decades. While I have seen large-scale celebration of Viswakarma in different factories in Port city of Haldia for almost six years, where the government offices remain closed for a couple of days, in Kolkata, Viswakarma has assumed a different form of community based worship. The communities are mostly informal sector workers involved in transport. Hence, there is a celebration at every corner of the localities with a rickshaw/electric ricksaw (popularly the TOTO)/Auto/Taxi/Bus stands. Sometimes when there is a simultaneous presence of two or more categories of vehicles there is an overlapping spatial allocation for two or more pujas.

The most conspicuous nature of Viswakarma puja is the nature of music used, patterns of celebration opted and display of emotions. These three represents distinct subcultures and the “Bhadralok” group could never know such existence until there is a Viswakarma puja nearby. Hence, for a couple (or more) days there is a rise of alternative music. These forms of music represent a distinct quality – often with rural tune, language and often with somewhat direct portrayal of sexually charged messages mixed with high bass fast music. More recently there is an inclusion of Bhojpuri songs. I have listened to a few and here are a few links. These songs are filled with symbolic portrayal of sex and body.

In practice on the night (even in day time as well) of Viswakarma Puja there is a bunch of people dancing with these songs after having some alcohol. It continues. Everyone, willing to go out for last minute shopping has to depend on their private cars and of late Ola or Uber as there is near complete absence of public transports. You will encounter fewer traffic polices too!

Discussions

Most prominent feature is the nature of ambiance created by the use of music and related performance. Viswakarma Puja represents one of such occasions when people from the bottom show that they don’t want to be regulated and display their distinctive subculture subsets. For two or three days they do not do what they otherwise do for earning their livelihoods. They refuse to go on hire and most often do not even bring their vehicle. While the sophisticated “Shyama Sangeet” has completely transformed the nature of Kali Puja and use of traditional Bengali musics including Rabindrasangeet has made Durgotsav a disciplined anarchy of Bengali “Bhadralok” possible – Viswakarma Puja has become one of the true alternative spaces for Carnivalesque. One can get updated about the subculture that exists parallel to the middleclass value oriented Bengali self, just by having a close watch on Viswakarma Puja. Viswakarma Puja blurs some of the essential boundaries of Private/public, rural/urban, good/bad, day/night and many more.
                                              This video of Viswakarma Celebration has been received in Whatsapp

Ps. I could go through several Puja pandals in the night without much hindrance in an UBER, which I am sure I could not have if it was the “Bhadralok” infested Durgotsav! You know, we live in multiple worlds of categories – truly. 

References:


Burke, Peter. (1978) Popular Culture in Early Modern Europe, London, Maurice Temple Smith

Leach, Edmund. (1961). Pul Eliya, a village in Ceylond: A study of land tenure and kinship. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.

Lefebvre, Henri. (1991a). The production of space, trans. D. Nicholson-Smith. Oxford: Basil Blackwell.

Lefebvre, Henri. (1991b) Critique of Everyday Life. Volume 1: Introduction. Translated by J Moore. London: Verso

Gluckman, Max. (1963). Order and rebellion in tribal Africa. London: Cohen & Wests.


Monday, September 18, 2017

Everyday politics in west bengal 1: the case of mathkol autostand

Post 2011 whenever i made field  visits to different places of west bengal a distinct form of showmanship in development was discussed. It was symptomatic to see so many flexes depicting who did what, under whose inspiration and whose allocatation to the development as examples of such a mechanism of politics.

Of course, the blue-white colour combination for every government infrastructure was a masterstroke. Now,  everyone even in the remotest corners of the state knows about the development of public infrastructure and the rest can be done with words.

Well there seems to be a substantive and parallel development of occupancy inspired politics. I have seen several mechanisms and instances of party office transformation, partisan attitude of undermining every competing channels of public transactions to continue in Dwaipayan Bhattacharyya's sense of the term "party society".

However the mechanism is furthered to become even more aggressive and one of the examples is readily visible in Mathkol stoppage on Belghoria expressway. Mathkol is an inspiration for the people who stay nearby places to avail metro rail from not so conspicuous noapara metro station. I have been availing this route for some time now. In july 2017 there has been an initiation of the construction of an auto stand (refer to the photograph). I was told by the auto drivers that this was purely a community based initiative by the auto drivers and owners to help passengers and the drivers themselves to deal with killing sun.

Today a poster containing four trinamool congress leaders have suddenly appeared. Being inquisitive i asked one of the auto drivers and suddenly a group discussion took place with  group of drivers.

Me- do they help you with the construction

Drivers-  no, it was purely made by us.

Me- then why did you allow their poster, make a flex of your posters here.

Drivers- how can it be possible? Its a TMC ward. They wanted to project it as their achievement.

Me- and you allowed them to do so?

Drivers- they have told us that they will provide chairs for sitting arrangement but frankly we made the plinth precisely for this reason, now the flex is actually preventing everyone to be able sit on the plinth.

Me- how much money did you invest

Drivers - it was about 40,000/- each of the owners gave Rs. 300/- and drivers gave Rs. 100/- additionally we have some outstanding dues.

Yes, I know in a few week time the details of this transformation will be erased and we might see another blue-white public infrastructure not quite public in practice.

Sunday, September 17, 2017

Postmodern encounters: Juxtapositions from classrooms to shoppingmalls

What makes culture so fascinating? Several answers you might encounter but the most fascinating one for Kaleidoscope is the filter effect that culture entails!

Kaleidoscope, when started studying diffussionism and later on encountered Rirzer with globalisation and mcdonaldisation always wondered what makes people from all over the world become the same? and then he encountered glocalisation as an accomodative space. However in postmodern times while there is a rise of global spread of capitalism and forces that make seemingly dissimilar people to become similar to a large extent, there is also a parallel rise of identity consolidation and rise of newer  and micro identities.

School days 1995-1996

Kaleidoscope can remember one of his teachers at his rural and least known school, who always promoted anti-superstitious narratives. He often talked of how easy it is to explain things scientifically. Kaleodoscope often relives that day when the teacher showed both of his hands saying "see boys, i dont wear any ring containing fortune bringing stones! Do you think that i am any less fortunate than those who bear them?"  Yes the impact was massive! The teacher along with several others brought 'Viggyan Manch' - the platform for promotion of science and rational mind to the school. It institutionalised such mindselt among many!

Kaleidoscope, however, lost that impression as he could also remember the same teacher uttered 'you know muslims are by race a bit aggressive'. Kaleidoscope couldn't relate this statement with his muslim friends and their families but nevertheless he continued to have a mixed and confused impressions.

Mall Days 2017s and the like

Kaleidoscope in continuation to his yearly marketing extravaganza today went to one of the important malls 'Mani Square.' When his store instructed him to comeback after 30 mins for the items he bought needed alteration, he went to food court and found what is presented in the photograph (see below).

Yes, a palmist and fortune teller in a shopping mall with an immediate backdrop of Coca-Cola. Kaleidoscope took the photo when the person left the chair for a moment- yes, no prsonal game here lets accept reality Sui generis!


Juxtaposed Kaleido

The filtering effect is continuing with all forms of juxtapositions, multiple realities and expressions of dominant forms of cultural filters. Capitalism makes it all possible in 2017. All are sold, from crossword to palm reading from potatoes to pizza.  Kaleidoscope could feel the strong presence of essentiality of cultural filters. Filters always surrounding you - filters that shapes you - makes you and breaks you.  While belief and cultural filters in 1990s have enabled the Viggyan manch inspired teacher to discard stone bearing rings but embrace the stereotypes about Muslims today one can actully read Einstein or Marx in the second floor order a piza at food court and explore his/ her palm and then take a ola to go back home and count number of likes on the facebook life. Meanwhile kaleidoscope like many othrs knows it is postmodern chaos wrapped in late-capital wrapper with jucy layers of feudal past.

Wednesday, September 13, 2017

Letting go 16: an accident, a song and dealing with the past

It was one fine winter morning that Kaleidoscope started another journey to the the field. It was part of his project that began with river and ended underground - yes you have guessed it right it was his project on irrigation. Funded adequately by the ministry of water resources and kaleidoscope could even hire helicopter if needed. However, he was happy with a travera - big enough to take everything you need if you have to spend the night inside the vehicle.
Yes, he had to face severe disruptions because at one part of bardhaman local administration arrested illegal opium cultivators and hence he had to spend the night inside the vehicle at one of the connecting roads to the NH 2. Now thats another incident but this one is more serious than that!
Next morning half awaken kaleidoscope along with a small team of special research group started his journey towards another village. Kaleidoscope sitting on front was careful enough to use his seat belt. The driver his beloved and skilled Chhotu directly hit a truck from the backside. Kaleidoscope's forehead stopped inches away from the bend brass made flag hoister used by the owner of that travera once in a while to express his gratitude to the country.
Kaleidoscope survived because of the seatbelt.
Did he? He was blinded for a while and then all he could listen to was the famous song 'Mauja hi mauja' from the wonderful movie 'Jab We Met'.
The entire team for the last one weak was enjoying this particular song whenever their travera speed up in the highway. It was 2007.
Since then kaleidoscope has always tried to avoid this brilliant song. He changed the television channel, turned off the radio and never kept this song in his computer or other devices.
Of late kaleodoscope started exploring google play music online and on his way to work he had to listen to this song once more. At first he thought of switching off google play online but somehow he liked the tune of the song once again!
He could actually go back to the song once again. He could go back to the moment before that accident and there are no other moments with the song after the accident.
It took roughly a decade to settle down. It takes time. It does. But kaleidoscope knows life goes on. Like 'Mauja hi mauja', moments can be relieved, moments can be dealt with!
One can actually repair, relive.
PS. No one was fatally injured and the everything was in order except for the windscreen and bonnet and that song!

Sunday, September 10, 2017

Market- plaza and kaleidoscopic space

Kaleidoscope on his yearly puja shopping is once again roaming around different shopping destinations.

His first destination was uttarapan the ghostly state build market corner with a handful of good shops, often govt sponsored ones. Yes wonderful ways to explore sarees and punjabis where you feel the heterotopia from juxtaposition of 'resham shilpa' shop with fully clad plaza effect and a near broken shanty like shop lacking even a proper signboard. While he crosses the staricase, smell of ammonia reminds him the public urinal nearby. But yes, its peaceful. Handful of people in proximics, a few uninterested shopkeepers and gloomy 1980s market appearance. When kaleidoscope crosses the staricase entrance of the first floor he sees four mid 50s men discussing politics over 'bidi' - the country made cigar.

To complement the mood of the space there are broken ceilings, iron skeleton of a few pillars looking at kaleidoscope, demanding his unintended attention and a few words haunts him for the space. The delhi'e durbar restaurant has been closed down years ago but no one seems to be interested to begin new initiative at the abandoned space. Such facts perhaps remind kalieodsocpe to be informal in the space once again.

As he comes out and sees the conspicuous state central library he asks, does it signify heterotopia or should he look at the space in concert? Otherwise why should there be the failed restaurants, ghostlike market place, historical dreams (largely has remained dream)in Damodar Valley Corporation and finally the library where very few people come and whoever comes gets disappointed with the reluctance of the staff (well a story of half of a decade old, Kaleidoscope is sceptical if it has changed). Then there is ESI hospital where kaleidoscope once met people who are living for months as they have no one to take back home. Finally the graveyard!

Now kaleidoscope takes a yellow cab (not uber) complementing with the mood of the space to reach at nearby pantaloons. Yes, it is formal and meticulously designed to make kaleido self conscious. There are so many mirrors to look at you! If it was the uninterested shopkeepers and juxtaposed 'reaham shilpa' shop at uttarapan, for pantaloons its kaleidoscope himself who made him feel alienated with a heterotopic self. Its him everywhere looking and asking uncomfortable questions. At one mirror there is kaleidoscope and just beside him there is a Hollywood hero. Hence, kaleidoscope is challenged with his looks and body. At another there seems to be a faceless body and price tags.

While kaleidoscope could feel the self-space interface he knew it was a concerted effort to alienate and isolate be it kaleidoscopic self, the space or his being.

Love for Richardson's Being in the market versus being in plaza 1982 continues.

http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1525/ae.1982.9.2.02a00120/pdf

Tuesday, September 5, 2017

Imagined communities to long distance nationalism: Kaleidoscope meets Anderson again

Kaleidscope like many others of his generation has a bunch of friends settled abroad. Kaleidoscope knows about a few of them who will never come back and another few who are looking for a parallel opportunity to come back availing the next available flight. Kaleidoscope grew up in a nothing exceptional sub-urban place overshadowed by the noise of Airport and that might be one of the motivational factors that pushed many of his childhood friends to board on an aircraft and fly off to a distant place. It is good have friends abroad because when they return they often bring expensive bottles, great smelling cigarettes and stories which Kaleidoscope listens to - often unmindfully.


Kaleidoscope will first classify such people who left India. They are primarily of three kinds (Note. these are not exclusive categories, there are many exceptions and don't blame Kaleido, you have made yourself appear like this only):


A. Settled and will never come back


B. Settled but looking for an opportunity to come back


C. Went for a few weeks of work


The category A and C are two extreme examples which Kaleidoscope finds amusing. Category C suddenly finds everything in India nasty, Indian's uncivilised and indiscipline. They keep on blaming people-government-history-geography and then also DNA and genes! This goes on for a few weeks until they accept their positions and their inabilities. The flow however, often erupts in family and friends gatherings. Kaledoscope finds amazing similarities between life-cycle rituals and category C people's once or twice in a life time foreign tour.


Now, the most interesting thing about category A is that they always pretend to belong to category B. They blame on the lack of opportunities in the country of their origin and some of them keep harping on the fact that they are forever refugees struck in diaspora. They usually make an annual or bi-annual or a five-year planned visit to their family to exchange gifts explore their native places, refresh and create memories only to go back again. Category A people usually are less talkative about the place where they stay - I don't know if they are afraid of inviting unwelcomed guests - frankly, people here would never think of paying a visit to Silicon valley or for that matter London unless they are old enough to find such a missing feather in their crown.




Anyways, the most amusing (until today) thing to Kaleidoscope was the interest of elections, leaders and politics back home! - even among the category A people who actually will never come back.




Taken from https://tendancecoatesy.wordpress.com/2015/12/13/benedict-anderson-dies/ 




"Imagined Communities" and Long Distance Nationalism:

It was in 2008 when Kaleidoscope first started to read Benedict Anderson's Imagined Communities at IIMC library keeping aside several "important" ministry related assignments and could never stop reading it. It was a stormy day and he could no longer meet his supervisors and continued to read this book. Later on Kaleidoscope could understand how the owners of Verso must have adored Ben for having that best seller book! Anyways, one thing that Kaleidoscope could identify regarding his quite different idea of national sentiment is that he was receiving similar news with more or less similar priorities like his fellow citizens.


Anderson wrote this book in 1980s and then Kaleidoscope like others have seen the proliferation of social media and revolution of internet. Here comes Kaleidoscope's second meeting with Anderson through his brilliant "Long distance nationalism." Yes, Kaleidoscope's fellow friends belonging to category A and B are behaving according to what may be termed as transcendence of territorial nationalism. Kaleidoscope's sincerely hopes that his readers remember Modi's speech among the diasporic crowd in New York and London.




Hence, no matter how dry it appears, Kaleidoscope once again love those facebook posts which sincerely criticise his country's policies-politics-corruption by people whose life it affects distantly  in remotest possible ways. Yes, you get it right - Kaleidoscope loves this international trans-boundary dimension of nationalism - even if like all long distance relationships its a pain in the ass.




Friday, September 1, 2017

Centre vis-à-vis state

Oxygen -

Centre-cow gives it hence no beef
State- Keshto has lesser amount hence no media please

Water -

Centere- river linking, thats it.
State- Fuck rivers drink ground water.

Food -

Centre - have patanjali that's saffron prashad
State - eat telebhaja help industry

Education-
Centre - fund research to extract gold from gaw-mothr's urine
State- jug therapy

Corruption -
Centre- stand on the ATM queue
State- Smoke more

Health-
Centre- seek cure in gaw-mother
State- beat up doctors

Equality -
Centre - hindu halfpants
State- support instant triple talaq

Support mechanism-
Centre -bhakts (often known as chaddis)
State- goons (often known as taja chhele)